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1. Is my pet overweight? How much should I feed her? What kind of food should she be on?
2. I’ve heard that I should be brushing my pet’s teeth. How am I supposed to do that and why?
3. I would like to have my pet seen by the veterinarian, but I don’t have any money right now, can I still come in?
4. When should I switch my puppy/kitten to adult food?
5. Why do you want to see a urine sample from my pet?
6. Okay, but how do I obtain a urine sample from my pet?
7. My pet does not go outside and/or has no contact with any other animals, do I still need to have him vaccinated?
8. Why do you want to see a fecal sample from my pet?

9. What does it mean to spay or neuter my pet and is it important to have it done?
10. Okay, I understand why I should alter my pet, but why is it so costly?
11. Does my pet have to spend the night?

12. I've heard about crate training, what does that mean? Isn't it cruel to lock your dog up?
13. Well, crate training seems like a good idea, should I go out and buy the biggest crate there is so my puppy has plenty of room?
14. Do you have any other pointers for housebreaking my puppy?


1. Is my pet overweight? How much should I feed her? What kind of food should she be on?
If you suspect that your pet is overweight, please feel free to call our office and set up a consultation. If your pet is due for her annual examination we can evaluate her weight at that time. If she is not currently due, you can set up a consultation with a Technician. Danielle, our C.V.T. is a Veterinary Nutritional Advocate and she is qualified to evaluate your pets Body Condition Score and advise you about a feeding and exercise plan.
We generally advise that you feed your pet a high quality diet such as Purina O.N.E, Eukanuba, Iams, or Hill’s Science Diet.

2. I’ve heard that I should be brushing my pet’s teeth. How am I supposed to do that and why?
Dental care is very important to your pet’s health. Dental disease can lead to problems throughout your pet’s body. The infection caused by periodontal disease may enter the bloodstream, potentially infecting the heart, liver and kidneys. Common indications of oral disease include bad breath, a change in eating or chewing habits, pawing at the face or mouth and depression. If you see any of these signs, or if you suspect dental disease for any reason, please call our office and schedule a dental examination.
To prevent dental disease, it is essential to create a home care routine. The best option is to brush your pet’s teeth. For complete instructions please click on http://www.petdental.com/pet_dental/pet_index.jsp.
If you would like hands-on instructions on brushing, please feel free to call our office and set up a consultation. Our staff would be happy to work with you to find a home care regimen that works for you. If brushing is truly not an option, don’t be discouraged, there are other homecare options we can explore.

3. I would like to have my pet seen by the veterinarian, but I don’t have any money right now, can I still come in?
Unfortunately, we are no longer able to bill our clients. If we continue to engage in this practice, we will no longer be able to afford to be in practice. We happily accept Visa, Mastercard, cash, and personal checks. If pet needs to be seen for something routine, we encourage you to wait until you have the money to set up the appointment. If your pet has a problem and needs to be seen promptly, we will hold a check (with current dating) until a designated date. We do require a valid credit card number with this service.

4. When should I switch my puppy/kitten to adult food?
A good rule of thumb is to switch your pet over when he or she is altered. If you should choose not to do so, you usually want to switch at about 12 months of age. This number is a general rule and may vary by breed.

5. Why do you want to see a urine sample from my pet?
Basically, a urinalysis can be used as a screen for many different conditions in dogs and cats. We can see evidence of problems as simple as a urinary tract infection, to complex issues such as kidney disease and diabetes, just to name a few. While a urinalysis is crucial for your pet as he or she ages (generally 6 years of age and older) it can be very helpful for pets of all ages.

6. Okay, but how do I obtain a urine sample from my pet?
Dogs - If you take a clean receptacle and hold it under your dog as he or she urinates you should be successful. We personally recommend a soup ladle or something relatively shallow like a pie plate. If you have a dog who lifts his leg, you job will be easier.
Cats - Cats are a bit more difficult, but don't get discouraged, there are several options. The simplest way to obtain a urine sample from a cat is to completely empty out the litter box, then clean it. Lock your cat in a small room (bathrooms are usually a good idea, even a large dog crate might work) with the clean, empty box, and wait for him to use the box.
If you are not successful with the first method, just stop by the office and we will dispense a lab litter kit. The process is basically the same, but we will give you a special litter to place in the clean litterbox. The kit also includes a pipette to transfer the urine and a container for the sample.
With both species, once you obtain the sample, place it into a clean container and bring it in to us.

7. My pet does not go outside and/or has no contact with any other animals, do I still need to have him vaccinated?
The decision as to whether or not a pet needs to be vaccinated is evaluated on a case by case basis. Generally, once a pet has completed a series of puppy/kitten vaccines at 8, 12, and 16 weeks, all pets should be given a distemper vaccination yearly until approximately 5 years of age. It is usually at about that age that we begin to re-evaluate the patients vaccination needs. Pennsylvania state law requires all dogs and cats to have a Rabies shot by 6 months of age, they then require a booster in 1 year, then subsequent boosters every 3 years for life. If your pet goes to boarding kennels, training classes or anywhere else where there will be a number of animals together in close quarters, he or she will need a bordetella (kennel cough) vaccination. There are other vaccinations available such as lyme disease and leptospirosis, however, we only vaccinate for those diseases if we feel the dog is at risk. That is why we always ask you about your pets lifestyle, as well as where they go and what they do. We can then better evaluate your pets needs. No matter what Dr. Jescke decides that your pet needs in terms of vaccinations, the most important thing is that we see your pet every 6 to 12 months for a physical examination.

8. Why do you want to see a fecal sample from my pet?
We can look at the sample under a microscope to screen for intestinal parasites.

9. What does it mean to spay or neuter my pet and is it important to have it done?
The proper name for a spay is an ovariohysterectomy (OVH). This is the surgical removal of the uterus and ovaries. It is very important to the health of your female pet. If she is left intact, she runs the risk of a very serious condition called a pyometra. This is an infection of the uterus. Essentially, the whole uterus fills with pus. This is a life threatening condition. Your intact female pet also runs the risk of mammary tumors (breast cancer). This is also a potentially life threatening illness. If you are thinking of spaying your pet, but you are not sure, keep in mind that with every heat cycle she goes through, her chances of developing a mammary tumor later in life are increased.
The proper name for a neuter is castration. This is the surgical removal of the testicles. It is important to neuter your male pet. There are a number of serious medical issues that can develop in an intact male. The most serious being prostate cancer.
For both genders, there are also a number of non-health related reasons to alter your dog or cat. First, you must consider the serious issue of pet overpopulation. Think about the number of homeless pets that are euthanized every year. Even if you don't plan to breed your pet, it is nearly impossible to keep an accidental pregnancy from happening. Also, both male dogs and cats tend to display very undesireable habits, and the earlier they are neutered the less likely these habits are to develop. Male cats have a tendency to "spray" when they remain intact, and it is nearly impossible to get that odor out of your house. Male dogs tend to "leg lift" meaning they have tendency to urinate on everything. Female pets will also make your life miserable when they are in heat. Female cats will cry and howl endlessly when they go into heat. They will also try to escape. A female cat will go in and out of heat continuosly every 21 days until they are bred or they are spayed. A female dog will drip bloody discharge while she is in full heat. This can get very messy. She will also try very hard to escape.

10. Okay, I understand why I should alter my pet, but why is it so costly?
You must think about what you are actually paying for. Neuters are less expensive than spays, this is for the simple reason that a neuter is a much less involved, less invasive procedure. A spay is a major abdominal surgery. In both cases, you are paying for the skill and time of the surgeon, all the necessary supplies, a Certified Veterinary Technician to monitor while under anesthesia, a state of the art monitoring system, the best and safest anesthestics and pain management medications available, as well as hospitalization. What would a hysterectomy cost for a human if she did not have insurance?

11. Does my pet have to spend the night?
All patients who are here for a spay are required to spend the night. This is because we can be sure that they are safely confined in a kennel overnight and are not at risk of injuring themselves. All neuters are permitted to go home that afternoon. All dog neuters are required to go home with an Elizabethan collar on so that they will not lick there incision.

12. I've heard about crate training, what does that mean? Isn't it cruel to lock your dog up?
Crate training is a safe and effective method of housebreaking your dog. At first, your puppy will spend a lot of time in his crate but as he matures he will have more and more freedom. When you cannot be with your puppy and monitor him 100%, he is in his crate. When he comes out of his crate, the first thing he does is go outside. Give him ample time to urinate and defecate. When he does, throw him a party! Meaning, give him plenty of praise as well as a treat. Do this everytime he does his "business" outside. When he has an accident in the house, resist the temptation to punish him. He needs to understand poop/pee inside, nothing happens, poop/pee outside, I get a party. He will understand. Keep him on a strict feeding schedule. This will help you predict when he has to go. Do not let him out of the crate when he cries. Do not use the crate as punishment. If you are positive and consistent with your training, your puppy will not mind being in there. Give him a treat when he goes in. Keep the door open and he may go in there to rest without you asking him to. By crate training your puppy, you will not only protect your home from an exhuberant young pup, you will protect your precious new family member from the dangers a big scary house can present.

13. Well, crate training seems like a good idea, should I go out and buy the biggest crate there is so my puppy has plenty of room?
No, a crate should be just large enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around. If he will grow up to be a large dog, you can get a large crate and block off part of it to make the crate smaller. You can also borrow a small crate from a friend until your puppy grows into a larger crate.

14. Do you have any other pointers for housebreaking my puppy?
-Keep the same feeding/exercise routine 7 days a week
-Always feed at the same time, allowing 15-20 minutes to eat, then take the food away. Do not allow unlimited access to food.
-Always feed the same diet. Choose a high quality puppy food, such as Purina One, Science Diet, Eukanuba, or Iams.
-Limit treats. Your puppy must earn a treat for learning a new behavior, or relieving himself outside.
-Take him outside immediately:
*after each nap
*after each meal
*after each drinking session
*after each playing session
*before bed
*if sniffing, circling, or whining
-Always take your puppy out on a leash during training, never let him loose in the backyard, or put him on a tie out. Once he is reliably housebroken you can think about gradually changing things.
-Take him to the same spot to do his business and wait there.
-Give doing business a word (business, duty, poops/peeps)
-Praise enthusiastically as soon as he goes.
-Remember mess inside=nothing
go outside=party


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